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Life at the Edge of the World: An Antarctic Expedition

Antarctica

Antarctica is a place that defies imagination—vast, raw, and beautiful all at the same time. In 2018, I joined an expedition as a photographer, stepping into a world of ice, wind, and resilient wildlife. This is a glimpse into that experience, where every moment felt rare and deeply humbling.

It was the opportunity of a lifetime: to join an expedition as a photographer aboard one of Hurtigruten's ships, sailing through the Antarctic. At 52, I found myself as an apprentice once more, learning alongside two seasoned photographers. It was humbling to be at the bottom of the hierarchy again, but it brought clarity and focus.

Here, in one of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth, there was no room for pretense—only the challenge to observe, learn, and capture.

Penguin colony with immense glacier backdrop
Chinstrap Penguin

Antarctica is difficult to describe, let alone photograph. The scale, the starkness, the ever-changing weather—it's overwhelming. The first sight of an iceberg was like stepping into another world. It wasn't just the size or the sculpted beauty of the ice but the realization of where I stood, witnessing something ancient and immense. And life was everywhere. Penguins gathered by the thousands, seals hauled out on ice, and birds wheeled through the cold air. From the deck of a Zodiac boat, we moved between the ice, seeking landing spots, and it felt as though every moment offered a new perspective on this vast, frozen frontier.

Some encounters stay with you. One of my favorite images is of a single chinstrap penguin, captured while I was helping set up a perimeter around a colony. Strict guidelines dictate how close you can approach wildlife, but if they approach you, it’s a different story. I lay in the snow, taking in the sounds and smells of the colony, when one penguin made a beeline towards me. The moment was simple but profound. Its determined stride, the drag of its feet through snow, and the expression that almost resembled a smile. It became one of my favorite photos, not for its perfection but for its sense of character.

Penguins in movement

On a steep, snow-covered slope, I watched a colony of penguins thrive against the odds. The chaos, noise and also the smell is overhwelming and all your senses are activated instantly. The fighting for nesting grounds was fearless, and on top of this the constant battle for the penguins to protect their eggs from predators like the Skua. These birds will hover over the penguin colony and look for the slightest chance to steal the eggs from the nests. Sitting in the snow for several hours observing this battle for life and death was intense.

In wildlife photography, access and timing are everything. Floating amongst the icebergs in the calm waters on the lookout for wildlife or just observing the changing landscape is so beautiful that i dont think photos will do it justice. One afternoon, we watched a group of Antarctic terns gather on an ice shelf, their movements like fighter jets preparing for takeoff. We turned the engine from the Zodiac of and floated quietly past them before they took off.

Other moments were quieter but no less memorable. Sitting with a Canadian biologist, Holly Hogan, we watched penguins jostle for position, fighting for the best nesting sites or looking for a mate. Hours passed in stillness, punctuated only by bursts of activity. On another landing, we climbed a mountain where penguins had built their nests. The resilience of these creatures is remarkable. They trek down to the ocean for food or to collect stones to strengthen their nests, navigating terrain that would challenge most humans.

Sometimes, the wildness was in the silence. Sitting next to a fur seal and watching it nap, undisturbed and deeply at ease. For most of the day, it didn’t move, and there was a temptation to join it for a nap. But there’s an unspoken respect in these moments, a sense of being a guest in a world that continues, with or without your presence.

And then there were the human touches, like the old Argentinian research station at Damoy Point. Rusted and weather-beaten, it stood as a relic of past exploration. Nearby, an Adelie penguin wandered by, and the contrast between the bright red building and the endless white snow felt surreal. It was one of those simple moments that stay with you, where the wild and the human intersect, each in quiet coexistence.

Adelie Penguin at Argentinian research station, Damoy Point
Penguins nesting at the foot of the mountain.

Antarctica is a place where resilience shapes every life. The sheer scale of life against the barren landscape was striking. It was more than wildlife photography; it was a testament to survival in a place that offers nothing easily. Thinking about life here during the dark and cold winter months and how anything can survive here is difficult to understand, but any living creature is highly adapted.

Penguins huddled in the cold and snow.

Weather, of course, is its own character here. The snow, the wind—they shape the mood of every image. I tried to capture that rawness, the way chinstrap penguins huddled together against the cold, rotating positions to shield one another. You see not just animals, but behaviors, survival strategies, ancient patterns that have evolved to meet the harshest of conditions.

This is what makes Antarctica unforgettable. It's not just the landscapes or the wildlife, but the rhythm of the place, the way every life here is shaped by challenge and adaptation. To witness that is to be reminded of nature’s quiet determination—and to feel, for a moment, a part of it.

One of the most surreal experiences of the trip was when the team decided to set foot on an ice flow - just the thought of doing anything like that would not have crossed my mind. But after the team had inspected the thickness of the ice we decided to give it a go. Spending almost 4 hours there while slowly drifting in this landscape was incredible, scary and utterly beautiful. I am not sure anything will ever come close to this experience. This photo was taken by Karsten Bidstrup.

Me standing on an iceflow

Select images from this journey are available as limited-edition prints or posters.

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